Tuesday, May 21, 2019

May 2--Vatican Museums, Sistine Chapel, St Peter's Basilica


I thought this would be the most inspiring day of the Road Scholars tour, but it was a disappointment.  It was way too crowded and I found the grandeur and the excesses of the Catholic Popes troubling...particularly when I realized that the "indulgences" of people paying to have sins forgiven made the excess possible.   Of course, the good news is that significant art investments were preserved.  It's a dilemma for me.  The guide was good, but I learned that I like to look at art at my own pace.  You can't do that when the guide needs to make sure everyone sees the classics.   It is also fascinating that the Vatican is an independent state with its own stamps and post offices.  I did send postcards.  I did not take pictures and so the pictures in this post were all pulled from the internet.

One of the most impressive pieces is the Apollo Belvedere. It is very graceful and he is holding a (missing) bow.  This marble statue dates to AD 120-140 and is a copy of a Greek bronze believed to have been created about 350-325 BC.  The Romans were copying Greeks during that time. 


Another impressive collection that I had not heard of before is a map gallery, above.   It shows the regions of Italy in the 16th century.   The fresco maps were interesting, but the ceiling was amazing.  There are many paintings, also in fresco, that relate to regions of Italy on that ceiling. To me, it is amazing to realize that this work was all done before Italy was unified in about 1870, so that is another twist.  Here is how a part of the ceiling looks:


Another fantastic fresco, "The School of Athens" (shown below) by Raphael, is in a set of rooms that feature work by Raphael and his assistants.  Actually, there are many amazing paintings in those rooms, but this one stood out to me.  It was done at the same time that Michelangelo was working on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel.
Raphael appreciated Michelangelo's work in the Sistine Chapel and added him as the brooding person in the left-center foreground of "The School of Athens."  Here's a close-up:

The next visit was to the Sistine Chapel.  It was truly overwhelming.  This fresco is "The Last Judgement" by Michelangelo:


We had received a good description of it the night before and so I was somewhat prepared but, WOW!  Christ is sitting in judgment with his mother at his side. Without going into every figure....the the figures on the lower left are ones who have been or will be saved and the ones on the lower right are those damned to Hell.  If you are interested, get a better resolution picture of this painting....or go see it.

The ceiling was done by Michelangelo and it is intricate and huge.  I could not possibly discuss all of it with any sincerity, and so I won't.  It would be a blur and/or a very long post.  Of course, the highlight of the ceiling is the depiction of the hands of God and Adam at the creation of Adam.
I wish I could say it was worth it to see the original.  I was glad I had some small travel binoculars because the ceiling is high and it is hard to see the details.  I was glad I had some small travel binoculars and found a seat to the side to contemplate it, but it really was too much to take in at once!

We also went into St. Peter's Basilica, which is where the Pope holds Mass, though not when we were there.  It is another overwhelming sight and to say it is huge is an understatement.  Since coming home, I have read that it covers over six acres.  The plan was developed by Michelangelo, including the enormous dome.  He died before it was completed, but it is amazing.


There is a lot of art in the cathedral, including an altar designed by Bernini.  The most memorable thing for me was The Pieta, a statue by Michelangelo of Mary holding her son after the crucifixion.

I think that, even if you are not a devout Christian, this work of art can move you.  A mother grieving the treatment of her son is always sad, but she believed was also the Son of God.

This was a very long post.  I am glad I did it because I came away from the day thinking that it was horrible because of the crowds, but I did see some incredible art and architecture.

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